![\"pic1\"](\"http:\/\/www.goldarchery.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/02\/pic1.png\")
<\/a><\/p>\nAs you can see from the above picture, several shots have been made, and the shafts are impacting the paper to the right side of the line as well as having a fairly heavy tail-left impact.\u00a0 Being a right handed shooter, this picture shows that these shafts are shooting weak.\u00a0 If you are left handed, a weak shaft would impact the target on the left side of the line and would have a tail right kick.<\/p>\n
At this point, I will now take the shafts to the cut off saw and start trimming the length from the rear<\/span> of the shafts to increase the dynamic spine of the shafts.\u00a0 My first cut will be rather short.\u00a0 If I get carried away and cut off too much, I could end up with two of my shafts being too stiff to continue.\u00a0 When making the first few cuts, I also suggest you never make a cut over \u00bc\u201d.\u00a0 If the first cut corrects the shaft quite a bit, the remaining cuts could be limited to 1\/8\u201d or less.<\/p>\n Let\u2019s make the first cut and do a little more shooting.<\/p>\n As you can see from the above picture, the cut did make quite a bit of change to the shafts.\u00a0 The heavy tail-left kick has straightened, but the shafts are still impacting to the right side of the line.\u00a0 Again, be sure and take several shots.\u00a0 You can see I have most likely made 10 to 15 shots before taking this picture.<\/p>\n ——————————————————————————————————————— If you are seeing a slight tail high impact on the shafts in the picture, remember, I am not the best photographer and I am trying to show the correction of the tail-left kick.\u00a0 Also, I am still shooting at ten yards which does cause a slight downhill shot angle.<\/p>\n If you are lucky enough to have a target that can be set up at chest height, you will not see this if the arrows are flying correctly off the nock on the string.\u00a0 If the target is at chest height and you are getting nock high impact, you will need to raise your nocking point on the string to level out the shafts. The next thing to consider is how much to take off on the next cut.\u00a0 The first cut took out a lot of the tail-left kick but did not bring the shaft over to the line.\u00a0 If you are feeling like you would rather take the safe road over the speed run, I would suggest making the cuts from this point on at no more than 1\/8\u201d.\u00a0 As the old saying goes, \u201cit is better to be safe than sorry\u201d.<\/p>\n Compare this picture to the one prior, and you will see that my cut made some changes on the impact spot of the target. so I decided to make another \u00bc\u201d cut.\u00a0 If you are more conservative with pushing the limits of your tuning skills and only cut 1\/8\u201d off, you may not see similar results.\u00a0 In either case, make sure of the out come of each cut with several shots, and continue cutting and shooting until your shaft starts to straighten.<\/p>\n Your results may differ from what I\u2019m showing, but don\u2019t give up.\u00a0 Tuning is not something that is easy to learn.\u00a0 Still, as you do it more and more, the process will become easier, and you will learn when to make the longer cuts.<\/p>\n As you can see from the picture, I am getting fairly close.\u00a0 However, remember I am still shooting at ten yards.\u00a0 We will get to the longer distance shot in a little while.<\/p>\n The cuts so far have made great improvements.\u00a0 From this point on, I will limit my cuts to no more than 1\/8\u201d.\u00a0 Even though this makes the process slower from here on, a little at a time will be all I need.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n ——————————————————————————————————————— If your results have not progressed as fast as what I am showing, don\u2019t get bent out of shape.\u00a0 Making a little progress at a time and taking several shots before reaching for the cutoff saw will always yield a faster learning curve.\u00a0 Jumping the gun and heading to the cutoff saw after only taking a shot or two can cost your pocket more than you would like.<\/p>\n The arrow setup I am using here is the same one I\u2019ve been through several times. The cut I made on the shafts for the above picture shows that I am right where I want to be at this point.\u00a0 The shafts are sticking fairly straight into the target, and the tail-left kick is basically gone.\u00a0 Now, we can start moving back and increasing the distance of the shots.\u00a0 However, I am still not ready to jump way back and will only move back five more yards.<\/p>\n Now shooting at fifteen yards<\/b>, I have made a switch from the paper with the line to a target which will allow me to see that I am shooting down the center and allows me to pick a spot.<\/p>\n From the picture above, you can see that the shafts are still impacting fairly straight and in line with my sight picture.\u00a0 I made several shots at this distance, and as far as impact, I am feeling good at this point.<\/p>\n However, now that I am back far enough to see some of the flight of the shafts, I am starting to pick up a tail-left kick during the flight.\u00a0 For some of you, this type tail kick may very well look like a big sweeping motion, as though the shaft is shooting around a curve.\u00a0 This is nothing more than your eyes playing tricks on you.\u00a0 In fact, the point is going straight and the tail of the shaft is kicking left.\u00a0 This is a real a mind blower if you are not expecting it.<\/p>\n I will make another 1\/8\u201d cut and shoot several more shots before moving further back.\u00a0 What I am looking for at this point is as close to the same results as I was getting at ten yards — Straight flight and straight impact.<\/p>\n Again, if your results differ, take the time to make several shots and decide whether or not you need to make another cut or more before moving on.<\/p>\n You will also want to watch out for a shifting of the tail kick to the right or impacting the target to the left side of the line on every shot. \u00a0This can happen when you just cannot stand to being held back and feel you need to cut and run too soon just to be able to get things finished.<\/p>\n After making another 1\/8\u201d cut, the shafts are now flying fairly straight and still impacting on the spots.\u00a0 I did not post a picture of this because it would not look much different in a new picture compared to the last one.<\/p>\n In the picture above, I have now moved back to twenty yards.\u00a0 The shafts are still impacting fairly straight and impacting right in my sight picture.\u00a0 However, every time I increase the shot distance, the tail-left kick\/sweep seems to creep back in.\u00a0 As you can see in the picture, the shafts have different impact angles.\u00a0 The one on the top is impacting a tad bit straighter than the one on the bottom.\u00a0 This is another reason I suggest using two shafts over one when tuning.\u00a0 The slight difference in the two will start to show at the longer distances.\u00a0 Had I only used one shaft and not seem the tail-left kick\/sweep and had it been the one on the bottom, I would have made a tiny cut to bring it back into straight flight not knowing the other shafts could very well be different.<\/p>\n However, I am still seeing a tiny tail-left kick\/sweep in flight with both shafts and will make a tiny cut and carry on shooting.<\/p>\n At this point, the shafts may be good enough for some shooters, but not for me.\u00a0 I want to see clean flight and impact.<\/p>\n With impact holding true, I am now concerned with flight, so making another tiny 1\/16\u201d cut will most likely be all I need.\u00a0 If you are still seeing a heavy tail kick or sweep, you may want to make a 1\/16\u201d cut and shoot several more shots before making another cut.\u00a0 Small cuts will not show progress as fast, but will allow you to see the changes without pushing the shaft to the stiff side before you understand how tuning works.<\/p>\n After making the 1\/16\u201d cut, I moved the targets around and shot one arrow at a time to see if I could tell which shaft was which.\u00a0 As you can see in the pictures above, both shafts are now impacting straight in, and the flight at twenty yards is flawless.<\/p>\n The main thing to remember at this point is the dynamic spine has now reached the intended goal and is correct.\u00a0 Any further trimming of the shaft will start to push the dynamic spine to the stiff side.\u00a0 Adding the fletching will slightly increase the dynamic spine of the shaft as the feathers drag on the tail.<\/p>\n If this is your first try at bareshaft tuning, I would suggest that you leave the shafts a tad bit on the weak side.\u00a0 You can always go back and resume the tuning process after you have started shooting the fletched arrows, if you feel they are still on the weak side.\u00a0 Once you see the results of a well tuned shaft, shooting everyday becomes a hard habit to break.\u00a0 In addition, leaving the spine a tad bit weak helps if you find yourself in a position where you can\u2019t get to full draw like you would standing in the back yard or on the shooting line.<\/p>\n With everything in correct dynamic spine, the time has come to fletch one of the shafts for a comparison shot.\u00a0 What you will be looking for at this point will be to see if both the fletched arrow and the bareshaft are flying the same.<\/p>\n To check the comparison shot, I fletched one of the shafts with three 3\u201d feathers.\u00a0 You may want to use longer feathers to start.\u00a0 The further forward the balance point, the longer the rear steering arm will be on the shaft.\u00a0 The longer the rear steering arm, the less fletching it requires to correct any possible bad flight normally caused by a bad release.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\n
\nA little side note here:<\/b><\/p>\n
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\nAnother side note here:<\/b><\/p>\n
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